(via dailymovement)
(via cassygolightly)
(via kidsoncrack)
From a swell back in April. I sort of black out all day when the waves are this good. It’s hard to remember everything when you are looking at waves this good all day and focusing on trying to get that inside-looking-out view. And dangggg, I’m glad Sean made this edit. It brought back some good memories, and it was only a month ago.
On Tuesday we all went down to Hatteras expecting to surf some fun playful waves, nothing over chest high is what I was thinking. But after the fog cleared mid morning and the wind died enough there were some real deal tubes to be had. I always get excited when I see one of these days in the forecast but it was fairly unusual to get it this good with out knowing so beforehand. I’m sure that is why it was so uncrowded as well, just a few friends trading off waves at the most popular wave in the OBX.
Here is me in my favorite wave of the day.
Photo: Ben Crum
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Its like Rockies.
Two lenses is a lot for around here.
